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Prepare to Dye: Salon Treatment
or "what do hair color and horse racing have in common?"
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James Whittall

By James Whittall
MenEssentials President
Published May 2005

Two weeks ago, I botched my home hair coloring experience and semi-permanently dyed my forehead, bathroom sink, son's favorite knit cap and wife's toothbrush. Don’t ask how.

Surveying the devastation – with my discarded rubber gloves and spilled dye, the scene looked a bit like the aftermath of a car wreck – it became immediately clear to me that everyone's interest would be better served if I turned to a professional colorist for my next treatment.

So I called the only color expert I know: my son's former karate sensei, Miguel, now a cop but still a licensed stylist. I figured there's no greater authority than a martial arts master with a bottle of hair dye and a gun.

Here's what I learned.


Just for Men?
The vast majority of salon-quality hair color was originally formulated for women. After all, men only recently made their presence known in the hair color market, so they really haven't been much on the minds of color chemists or beauty marketers. In fact, the men's market is still something of a surprise to industry specialists. They're scrambling to catch up.

Men who use women’s professional coloring products will likely find that their hair tones shift to the warm (red or yellow) end of the spectrum when the dye starts to fade out. This is because women's color bases are designed to satisfy female preferences for vibrant, warm, rich tones. Guys are much less complicated. We just want to get rid of our grey hair.

As a consumer, it's in your best interest to know that your colorist's choice of hair dyes is a new or recent formulation for men, and not a repackaged women's hair color product. New formulations likely use the latest in ingredient technology and are specifically designed to yield results that men, not women, find most appealing.

Don't be afraid to ask. It is, after all, your professional appearance at stake.


What to Expect
If you've never had a professional color treatment, here's what to expect.

The stylist cuts your hair, as usual. After the cut, he or she will escort you to the shampoo bowl, wrap you in a chemical cape, and, starting from the back of your head, apply product with a bowl and brush.

The application is either "full coverage" (grey is completely eliminated) or "blending" (a little grey remains at the temples). Be sure to specify your preference before treatment begins.

Permanent hair dye processes in 20 minutes. After processing you receive a rinse, shampoo, and final style.


How Much to Pay
A professional men's grey camouflage service should set you back about $20 to $30, excluding cut. Don't forget the tip. Good salon etiquette dictates a gratuity of 15 to 20 percent of the treatment price, before taxes, for a job well done.


Bet on the Rider, Not the Horse
How do you find the right men's hair color service? If you've done your research and decided its dyes are acceptable for use on men, then place your bet on the rider and not the horse. In other words, it's the colorist and not the salon who stands between you and a superb or lackluster treatment.

Some colorists specialize in guys. Others focus primarily on women. When you call for your appointment, ask the receptionist to recommend the salon's best "cutter" for men. This is the person who has the most passion for men's hair. His or her calendar will probably be full several days in advance, so try to be as flexible as possible.

After all, your appointments can be rescheduled. A bad treatment from an unskilled but more available colorist can last up to six weeks or until your next hair cut.

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Notice to Reader: The men's skin care and grooming advice on this web site or in correspondence with customers is intended to educate and entertain. It does not replace the counsel of a physician. Seek the advice of a doctor if your skin condition warrants medical attention.